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Britt, Helena; Stephen-Cran, James; Bremner, Elaine (2013)
Publisher: Association of Degree Courses in Fashion & Textiles (FTC)
Languages: English
Types: Part of book or chapter of book
The Archives and Collections Centre (ACC) at The Glasgow School of Art (GSA) exists as a resource for the study of art, design, architecture and education. It comprises a wide range of material from School records, textile pieces, garments, pattern books, posters, artworks, architectural drawings, plaster casts, photography and a collection of works by Charles Rennie Mackintosh. This paper describes Awaken, a research project undertaken involving staff from the ACC, the Department of Fashion and Textiles, and the Centre for Advanced Textiles (CAT) at GSA. The project examined the conceptual possibilities of re-interpreting archive material for contemporary fashion and textile related design work. This was underpinned by an explication of the creative process characteristic of this specific approach to design. The following questions directed the project:\ud • To what extent will the ideas produced be derivative or unoriginal?\ud • Will we be re-interpreting, reproducing, initiating, appropriating, parodying or deliberately abstracting? Or will archive material simply act as a prompt, a trigger, or ‘fodder’?\ud • How will working from archive material differ from our normal working practice?\ud • Will we be collaborating with the originator of the archive piece?\ud • To what extent will we make sense of the original artefact by working from it?\ud \ud Awaken involved case studies with fashion and textile practitioners working individually and collaboratively. Data collection methods involved the practitioners observing, recording and reflecting on responses and processes using creative process journals (CPJs) and focus groups to stimulate critical reflection, share, question and articulate issues associated with the research. Content analysis provided the framework to relate the data collected to the key questions and emergent themes. The resulting fashion and textile artefacts were exhibited alongside extracts from CPJs and original archive material in the Mackintosh Gallery at the GSA. Aspects of the project were assimilated with visual material in a publication, which accompanied the exhibition. \ud \ud This paper will provide insight into the Awaken project, detailing the archival items practitioners selected, the approaches taken, insights into the creative process, the contemporary artefacts produced and discussions surrounding the research questions and key themes. The findings from the project will be described, adding to the minimal existent literature surrounding fashion and textile design creative process involving the utilisation of archival material. The paper will also briefly describe a research project currently in progress by the authors involving the Stoddard Templeton Design Archive at the GSA.
  • The results below are discovered through our pilot algorithms. Let us know how we are doing!

    • Mougenot, C., Bouchard, C. and Aoussat, A. (2008) Inspiration, images and design: an investigation of designers' information gathering strategies. Journal of Design Research, 7 (4): 331-351.
    • Panel & Dovecot Studios (2012) Carpets of Distinction. Exhibition. 10th November 2012-12th January 2013. Dovecot Studios, Edinburgh.
    • Parsons, J. & Campbell, J.R. (2004) Digital Apparel Design Process: Placing a New Technology Into a Framework for the Creative Design Process. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 22 (1-2): 88-98.
    • Pedgley, o. (2007) Capturing and analysing own design activity. Design Studies, 28 (5): 463-483.
    • Reading, C. (2009) Sources of inspiration: How design students learn from museum collections and other sources of inspiration.
    • Art, Design & Communication in Higher Education, 8 (2): 109-121.
    • Schoeser, M. & Boydell, C. edts (2002) Disentangling Textiles: Techniques for the study of designed objects. London: Middlesex University Press.
    • Schon, D. (1985) The Design Studio.
    • Shaw, A. (2009) Creative Process Journal (unpublished). Glasgow: The Glasgow School of Art.
    • Stephen-Cran, J. (2009a) Awaken.
    • Exhibition. 24th January - 28th February 2009. Mackintosh Gallery, The Glasgow School of Art, Glasgow.
    • Stephen-Cran, J. (2009b) Awaken: New Textiles Inspired by the Archives & Collections at The Glasgow School of Art.
    • Studd, R. (2002) The Textile Design Process.
    • The Design Journal, 5 (1): 35-49 Sweeny, C. (2009) Creative Process Journal (unpublished). Glasgow: The Glasgow School of Art.
    • Telford, S. (2009) Creative Process Journal (unpublished). Glasgow: The Glasgow School of Art.
    • Turpeinen, o. (2012) Combining art and design education with cultural heritage.
    • [Internet] http://cumulushelsinki2012.
    • org/cumulushelsinki2012.org/wp-content/ uploads/2012/05/02_Combining-art-anddesign-education-with-cultural-heritage.pdf [Accessed 23/11/12].
    • Walters, S. (2009) Passing Interest of Likely Debate. In Stephen-Cran, J. Awaken.
    • Figure 2: Selected by Beca Lipscombe.
    • Fabric poster, 1981. Archives & Collections Centre, GSA. Photograph, Sean Black.
    • Figure 3: Selected by v icky Begg. Painting studios, The Glasgow School of Art, black and white photograph, c1960s . Archives & Collections Centre, GSA. Photograph, v icky Begg.
    • Figure 4: Selected by Alan Shaw, Elaine Bremner and Helena Britt. Detail of architectural drawing,, c.1958. Archives & Collections Centre, Gillespie, Kidd and Coia Archive, GSA.
    • Figure 5: Selected by Leigh Bagley and Joanna Kinnersly-Taylor. Travel Journal (detail) by John Walter Lindsay, 1950. Archives & Collections Centre, GSA. Photograph, Sean Black.
    • Figure 6: 'Typed Label', photograph from a series of details of archive 'ephemera', 2009.
    • Figure 7: Selected by Christie Alexander.
    • Class photograph from Daisy Anderson papers, 1892. Archives & Collections Centre, GSA. Photograph, Sean Black.
    • Figure 8: Selected by Chloe Highmore.
    • Excerpt from Needlework Development Scheme Bulletin 18B, Designing Toys, c1950s. Archives & Collections Centre, GSA.
    • Figure 9: Selected by Alan Gallacher.
    • Needlework Development Scheme Bulletin 27B, Edgings and Trimmings, c1950s.
    • Figure 10: Detail of Awaken exhibition case showing inspiration, 'external artefacts' and development work, Joanna Kinnersly-Taylor, 2009. Photograph, Leigh Bagley.
    • Figure 11: Photograph from personal (external) archive, Alan Gallacher, 2009.
    • Figure 12: 'v itrine of Research' for My Glasgow Girls, Awaken exhibition detail, Beca Lipscombe, 2009. Photograph, Leigh Bagley.
    • Figure 13: Installation of vacuum formed clear acrylic panels with resin cast oflwers, Awaken exhibition detail, Susan Telford, 2009. Photograph, Leigh Bagley.
    • Figure 14: 'My Glasgow Girls', screen-printed fabric posters, Awaken exhibition detail, Beca Lipscombe, 2009. Photograph, Joanna Kinnersly-Taylor.
    • Figure 15: GC&K Digital Textiles Collection, Elaine Bremner and Helena Britt, 2009.
    • Figure 16: 'Blister', knitted wall tiles, Leigh Bagley, 2009. Photograph, Joanna KinnerslyTaylor.
    • Figure 17: 'The Barrow Market on Saturday after Sir Muirhead Bone', pigment screen print on cotton, hand painted with watercolour and dye, Awaken exhibition detail, Clair Sweeney, 2009. Photograph, Joanna Kinnersly-Taylor.
    • Figure 18: GC&K design, scale exploration, digital prints onto cotton, Helena Britt, 2009.
    • Figure 19: GC&K designs, digital prints onto cotton, Elaine Bremner, 2009. Photograph, Helena Britt and Elaine Bremner.
    • Figure 20: Lampshade design development, Alan Gallacher, 2009. Photograph, Helen McGilp.
    • Figure 21: Lampshade, Expandex on felt wool with discharge printed fringe, Alan Gallacher, 2009. Photograph, Joanna Kinnersly-Taylor.
    • Figure 22: Machine knitted dress with handworked detailing, Awaken exhibition detail, Christie Alexander, 2009. Photograph Christie Alexander.
    • Figure 23: Selected by Beca Lipscombe.
    • Exhibition opening, black and white photograph, c.1980. Archives & Collections Centre, GSA. Artefact photograph, Sean Black.
    • Figure 24: Selected by Juliet Dearden.
    • Excerpt from Educational Needlecraft by Margaret Sawnson and Ann MacBeth, 1922.
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